START TURN. VIVA LA DIVA! — Handbag Homage

Lights, camera, action. Viva la Diva! The V&A have staged another dazzling event with their new exhibition, DIVA, a constellation of totemic, torch bearing icons ranging from Clara Bow and Aretha Franklin to that greatest showman, Sir Elton John.

*Cher, Elton John and Diana Ross at Rock Awards Santa Monica Civic Auditorium 1975; Various Locations; Mark Sullivan 70's Rock Archive Photo: Mark Sullivan/Contour by Getty Images*

Nowadays, we may think of ‘diva’ entertainers as over the top, larger than life and often with demanding ‘riders’ – a list of requirements, requests or conditions that a performer or celebrity expects in addition to their appearance fee.

But it wasn’t always so. The word diva was originally derived from the Italian for a female deity, or goddess, and closely associated with prima donna. It emerged in the early 19th century when many leading sopranos became so famous and celebrated that they almost became goddess-like in the eyes of their adoring public.

*Early Parisian couture worn by Adelina Patti from the V&A’s collection.*

The V&A’s DIVA exhibition explores how the meaning of the word has been subverted and embraced over time, and how the label has been reclaimed by performers, their fans and wider society.

‘Act One’ provides historical context to the creation of the diva and explores the goddesses of the stage and screen who have endured and shaped our popular culture today. This section celebrates how the iconoclastic first opera divas Adelina Patti (see above) and Jenny Lind created and performed extraordinary roles which brought them wealth and recognition at a time when most women were unable to pursue an education or careers.

*A precious jewellery box embellished with mother of pearl inlay, presented to Jenny Lind after a charity concert in aid of the Queen's College Hospital, Birmingham (1848)*

Enigmatic star of stage and screen Vivien Leigh is beautifully presented. On display is a corseted crimson dress designed by Christian Dior and worn by her as Paola in Jean Giraudoux's play ‘Duel of Angels’ at the Apollo Theatre in 1958.

*Vivien Leigh’s gown by Christian Dior © Victoria and Albert Museum, London*

As you’d expect, DIVA is a very exotic, spangly event, but V&A curator Kate Bailey, as well as handpicking a line-up of starry exhibits, has created a brilliant space to enhance her divas’ presentation. “At the heart of this exhibition”, she says, “ is a story of iconic performers who with creativity, courage and ambition have challenged the status quo and used their voice and their art to redefine and reclaim the diva.”

Kate Bailey’s divas are afforded the perfect home. The ‘architecture’ of the show is elegant, cool and minimal, providing the quintessential simple backdrop so the exhibits shine. Walking around, it’s a wonderful and peaceful scenario to navigate.

DIVA will be the first exhibition of its kind, says the V&A, to celebrate the extraordinary power and creativity of iconic performers who have made their voices heard from the 19th century to today. Through theatrical staging and a sonic headset experience, DIVA celebrates the powerful and personal stories of creativity, ambition, and resilience of some the best- known divas, from opera goddesses and silent movie stars to sirens of the big screen and today’s global megastars, like the inimitable Grace Jones, pictured below.

*Image of Grace Jones wearing Issey Miyake moulded corset, Drury Lane, 1981. Photograph © David Corio*

Over 60 looks will go on display, many rare and many for the first time. Here is just a snapshot of more of my favourites: To me, Maria Callas is the ultimate diva, and she’s represented in an off the shoulder gown and long white opera gloves. As you’ll see by the picture, she is stunningly beautiful in wistful diva pose.

Callas was an American-born Greek soprano who was one of the most renowned and influential opera singers of the 20th century. Leonard Bernstein, considered to be one of the most important conductors of his time, called her "the Bible of opera".

*Photograph of Maria Callas taken as Violette in La Traviata photography by Houston Rogers © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.*

The legendary Tina Turner triumphed adversity to become a supreme diva and was dubbed the Queen of Rock 'n' Roll. Tina’s life is well documented with almost fifty years in the music business, and she became one of the most commercially successful international female rock stars. You can marvel at her shimmering flame dress created by the eminent Bob Mackie, fashion designer to the stars. His original sketch is there too.

*Tina Turner wearing the Flame dress designed by Bob Mackie (1980). Photo by Gai Terrell, Redferns. Getty Images*

You couldn’t stage a DIVA exhibition without Dame Shirly Bassey. She is represented too, in the iconic couture pink gown designed by Julien Macdonald and famously accessorised by diamanté-studded wellington boots, (worn on stage at Glastonbury in 2007).

*Dame Shirley Bassey in Julien Macdonald.* ⓒ *Victoria and Albert Museum*

In ‘Act Two’, the exhibition will explore how the modern performer continues to use their voice to enable social and political change, and how artists such as Billie Holliday, Nina Simone and Ella Fitzgerald endured backlash criticism and danger to oppose the status quo.

Photographic negative, Billie Holiday at her only ever London appearance at the Albert Hall. Jack Parnell band backing her, photographed by Harry Hammond, England, 1954 Photo: Harry Hammond. © Victoria and Albert Museum, London

To wrap the show – VIVA has the perfect finale. Raised high on a dais are perched Sir Elton John and Rhianna, catching the light and harmonising in silver and white, the ultimate divas. In true pomp, Elton is sporting a Louis XIV inspired look, with towering, powdered wig and train designed by Sandy Powell for his 50th birthday celebration.

In 2018, the theme at the notorious New York Met Gala was Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination. Rihanna famously showed dressed as a ‘high fashion pope’. The megastar wore a pearl and jewel-encrusted robe, matching papal mitre and necklace, Christian Louboutin heels and jewellery by Cartier. The entire look was created by John Galliano for Maison Margiela. It was sensational!

DIVA runs until 7 April 2024.

V&A Museum
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DIVA is supported by online luxury fashion destination NET-A-PORTER.

STAR TURN. VIVA LA DIVA!

Lights, camera, action. Viva la Diva! The V&A have staged another dazzling event with their new exhibition, DIVA, a constellation of totemic, torch bearing icons ranging from Clara Bow and Aretha Franklin to that greatest showman, Sir Elton John.