FABERGÉ SPARKLES AT THE V&A
Something to brighten the arrival of the winter season! A glittering exhibition is launching at the V&A Museum. Fabergé in London: Romance to Revolution will be the first major exhibition devoted to the international prominence of the legendary Russian goldsmith and the importance of his little-known London branch, in Bond Street, Mayfair.
Sparkling aquamarine and diamond tiara. A token of love from Frederick Francis IV, Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin to his bride, Princess Alexandra of Hanover and Cumberland.
With a focus on Fabergé’s Edwardian high-society clientele, Fabergé in London will shine a light on the artist’s triumphs in Britain as well as the global fascination with the opulence of his creations. Highlighting over 200 objects, the exhibition will tell the story of Carl Fabergé, the man, and his internationally recognised firm that symbolised Russian craftsmanship and elegance – an association further strengthened by its connection to the romance, glamour and tragedy of the Russian Imperial family.
Centre-stage will be the recently rediscovered Third Imperial Egg of 1887, remarkably found by a scrap dealer in 2011! It’s one of the ‘missing’ eggs created by Fabergé that was lost for many years. It appeared at an auction in New York in 1964, but was unrecognised and then disappeared until 2011, when it was bought for its gold weight value at a Midwest flea market. The buyer later contacted the antique jewellery firm Wartski, who identified it as being an Imperial Easter Egg.
Third Imperial Egg 1886–7. Chief workmaster August Holmström (1828–1903), St Petersburg Gold, sapphire, diamond; h. 8.2 cm. Presented by Emperor Alexander III to Empress Maria Feodorovna, Easter 1887 Private Collection
The stunning jewelled and ridged yellow-gold Egg, on a tripod pedestal, stands on chased lion paw feet and is encircled by coloured gold garlands suspended from blue cabochon sapphires, and topped with rose diamond-set bows. In the traditional Fabergé style, the egg contains a surprise – a lady’s watch by Vacheron Constantin, with a white enamel dial and openwork diamond-set gold hands.
The exquisite Peacock Egg of 1907-8 is shown on public display for the first time in over a decade. This rock crystal egg, finely engraved with rocaille, contains a surprise – an enamelled gold peacock automaton, perched in the branches of a coloured gold tree with flowers in enamel and precious stones. The peacock, when lifted from the tree, placed on a flat surface and wound up, proudly struts around and fans out its tail feathers.
Peacock Egg presented by Emperor Nicholas II to Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna in Easter 1908, made by Chief workmaster Henrik Wigstrom for Fabergé, 1907 – 8, St Petersburg
Fabergé in London: Romance to Revolution will explore the Anglo-Russian nature of Fabergé’s enterprise with his only branch outside of Russia opening in Mayfair, London in 1903. Royalty, aristocrats, American heiresses, exiled Russian Grand Dukes, Maharajas, financiers with newly-made fortunes and socialites flocked there to buy gifts of unparalleled luxury. Fabergé works were as popular in Britain as they were in Russia.
The second section of the exhibition will tell the story of Fabergé’s time in London, including how the firm flourished under royal patronage, and how its creations became a social currency for gift giving and ostentatious displays of wealth, amongst the cosmopolitan elite who gathered in the city.
Fabergé's premises at 173 New Bond Street in 1911. Image Courtesy of The Fersman Mineralogical Museum, Moscow and Wartski, London
Fabergé’s choice of London for its new premises was partly because it was the financial capital of the world, a luxury retail destination able to draw a wealthy and international clientele. It was also the home of Edward VII and Queen Alexandra who were already avid Fabergé collectors, making royal patronage in London highly likely.
A transitional section in the exhibition will transport visitors from Russia to a bustling London, and highlight the strong Royal Family links between the British and Russian families. Royal photography in Fabergé frames and gifts presented by Emperor Nicholas II and Empress Alexandra Feodorovna to their British relatives will be shown, including a notebook given by Tsar and Tsarina to Queen Victoria for Christmas in 1896.
Chelsea Pensioner, by Fabergé. 1909 Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II
Other treasures on display include a commission from King Edward of his faithful wire-haired fox terrier Caesar, a notebook given by Emperor Nicholas II and his wife Empress Alexandra Feodorovna to Queen Victoria for Christmas in 1896, and a sparkling aquamarine and diamond tiara – a token of love from Frederick Francis IV, Grand Duke of Mecklenburg-Schwerin to his bride Princess Alexandra of Hanover and Cumberland.
Note the collar! Caesar, by Fabergé. Chalcedony, gold, enamel, rubies c. 1908 Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 202.
An element of Fabergé’s ingenuity shines through in his whimsical designs of functional objects including a silver cigar cutter modelled as a carp. Fabergé’s inspiration came from many sources and he particularly admired Japanese works of art, owning a significant collection of Japanese artefacts. This imaginative silver cigar cutter is modelled on a Japanese Meiji period bronze. When its protruding pink chalcedony eyes are pressed, the blade opens across its mouth and the fish appears to breathe!
Silver cigar cutter, modeled as a carp, made by chief Workmaster Henrik Wigstrom for Fabergé, about 1908, St Petersburg. © Courtesy of the Woolf Family and Wartski, London
The spectacular Fabergé in London: Romance to Revolution is curated by Kieran McCarthy, Joint Managing Director of Wartski, and Hanne Faurby, V&A Exhibition Curator. The event is supported by partner Pan Pacific London, marking the Hotel Group's first footprint in Europe.
The event is taking place at Gallery 39 and the North Court, V&A, South Kensington and runs from 20 November 2021 – 8 May 2022. Tickets are on sale now at vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/Faberge
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